The story of John Dory

And so back to fish.... well I've only covered mackerel so far and there are plenty more fish in the sea, as the saying goes. So what's the story with John Dory? It isn't the most readily available fish, but it is one of the finest of them all. It will impress your guests and, most importantly, has a wonderful flavour and firm texture.  John Dory is also perfect for gaining the confidence to expand your repertoire and develop as a cook. Only true cooks would cook John Dory after all! Master this and you are on your way to becoming a 'proper' chef (although maybe being an improper one would be more fun). Again, as with all fish, a good fish monger is essential.

Why the name John Dory? This wonderfully idiosyncratic name rather disappointingly comes from an English mispronunciation of the French description of its shimmering skin,  'jaune doree' meaning golden yellow. I'd always rather hoped there was a bit more of a story behind 'little John Dory'. Many people are put off buying John Dory as it is an ugly beast with a big head and sharp spines. As a result the yield is low (about 35%) and the bigger fish are quite expensive and difficult to find. That said, they are worth every penny. If you see a 1 kg plus fish in your fishmongers you should snap it up. The flesh from a thick fillet is sublime, with that just perfect delicate fishiness of a sea bass combined with the sweet firmness of a dover sole - fish heaven! Smaller fish (400-700g) are more readily available and when filleted make perfect starter sized portions. They are also better value.

John Dory's are actually quite easy to fillet despite their appearance, but if I was you I would set your fishmonger to work to ensure the maximum yield. There are no pin bones and unlike some flat fish, the skin crisps up nicely when pan-fried. Also, the fillets divide prettily into little diamonds and the remaining head and bones make great fish stock.  Sold? Well you should be...

Gentle spicing works fantastically with John Dory.  Warm aromatic spice blends, used in moderation enhance it's sweet delicate flavour and take the fish to another dimension. But it is equally at home alongside mediterranean flavours, such as with a ratatouille and pesto and with more earthy flavours such as a wild mushroom cream sauce. It is that cross between the sea bass and the dover sole (my description not actual) that makes it so versatile. The recipe I am going to share with you is one that featured as a starter at a Dinner at the Pavilion and I think perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the Spicy Englishman.

John Dory, cauliflower and chickpea chutney, spiced aubergine caviar

1. Cut up a head of cauliflower into small florets. Cover with sea salt to soften slightly and leave overnight. Rinse the cauliflower thoroughly in cold water in a colander. Add the cauliflower and a drained can of chickpeas along with a teaspoon each of yellow mustard seeds and coriander seeds to a saucepan. Set aside.
2. Make the chutney. Put 500 ml of cider vinegar in a saucepan and add 200g of caster sugar; 10g each of turmeric and mustard powder; 1 teaspoon each of cumin, coriander, and ginger; chilli flakes to taste (you want warmth not heat) a good pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Bring the liquid to the boil and simmer for about 10 minutes, adding 1 to 2 teaspoons of slaked cornflour to thicken the liquid to a coating consistency.  Taste the liquid, it should have a good sweet sour balance. Too vinegary it will mask the fish and fight the wine you are drinking with the dish. If need be add more sugar to the sauce to temper the vinegar. Pour the hot liquid over the cauliflower, chickpea and seed mix. Simmer for about two minutes and set aside.  The chutney will be served warm.
3. Make the spiced aubergine caviar. Cut a large aubergine in half lengthways and score the flesh in a diamond pattern. Stud the cuts with garlic and sprinkle with about a teaspoon of cumin and drizzle with olive oil. Reform the aubergine and wrap it in tin foil. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes at 180 degrees C. Once cooked, leave to cool a little before scraping out the flesh with a spoon into a bowl. Blend the aubergine to a smooth puree, adding some more oil if necessary. Fold through about a teaspoon of nigella seeds, add a squeeze of lemon and season with sea salt. Set aside.
4. Season the John Dory fillet with sea salt and mild curry powder. Vadouvan, if you can get your hands on it, is an ideal blend - it's a bit of a chef's secret. 
5. Pan fry the John Dory skin side down for 2-3 minutes depending on the thickness of the flesh. It will curl, but this leads to a nicely caramelised edge although you do need to push it flat with a fish slice. Flip it over and remove the pan from the heat, leaving the fillet to cook in the residual heat for a further minute. 
6. Serve the dish. Place a dessert spoon of aubergine in the centre of the plate and spread it with the back of the spoon. place some warm chutney either side and lay the fillet across. Garnish with coriander leaves. Serve to your guests with a classy white wine with a bit of depth to it. At the dinner it was partnered by a Macon Vergisson from producer Joseph Burrier.  

Variations

A Moroccan version also works well. This was a dish served at one of my first Dinner at the Pavilions. Season the John Dory with Ras-el-hanout and serve with chermoula carrots.  For the chermoula carrots (I love the sweetness of carrots with white fish), thinly slice the carrots. Add them to a large frying pan or wok with some butter, a pinch of salt and a teaspoon of sugar. Toss to coat the carrots. Deglaze with water and cook on a rapid boil until the carrots are sweet and glazed. Add a good tablespoon of chermoula and fold through to coat the carrots. My version of chermoula is made from blending about 30g each of parsley and coriander leaves with one clove of garlic, a teaspoon of cumin, a teaspoon of coriander powder, a green chilli, the juice of one lemon, the peel of half a lemon, salt, black pepper and extra virgin olive oil. The picture below is the same dish served with monkfish, I don't have one of the John Dory dish for some reason. 

Happy cooking!